I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. We hope that this is ok for you. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. , ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. This is a public discussion in World. Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. Keylock Benefit. The most versatile ever belay device. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). Easier than a grigri. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). The most versatile ever belay device. I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. Great to see that you guys responded. 121 grams. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. Please note that these values are only meant as indications. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Using with an Edelrid Strike. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. The main body of the Giga Jul … Very complicated - very German! Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I'd like to hear your views. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. including�16% VAT. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Buyers Guide. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Public discussion The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. 18 Jun, 2019. The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. I watched the review above, and comments etc. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. Been using mine for about 2 months. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. no shipping costs. Single rope, half rope, double rope. The most versatile ever belay device. You are not part of this discussion. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. Thanks. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. Thanks everyone for the comments. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). Edel The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. The most versatile ever belay device. GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Keylock Drawback. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm.